Your Essential Guide to Exploring Safed

Key tips for the observant traveler visiting Safed's Old City.

Old City of Safed (Photos: shutterstock)Old City of Safed (Photos: shutterstock)
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1. "All Products Are Badatz." This declaration is often displayed in certain shops, yet it doesn't always guarantee actual reliability. Central area residents may rely on such statements, but it's crucial to consult locals regarding the trustworthiness of the shop owner or supervisor before depending on their claims. It's unfortunate to see devout-looking individuals dining at establishments with certifications they wouldn't trust back home. Some Badatz labels could be misleading, especially if no official certification is granted. Consider yourself warned.

2. "Tenth for the Minyan." In Safed's Old City, there are two synagogues offering relatively late 'Maariv' or 'Shacharit' prayers - the 'Canz' Synagogue (Terbut Street) and 'Lealov' (16th Street, behind Nesae Street, near the 'Rimmonim' Hotel). These serve as informal prayer spots, throughout the year too. In the 'Maor Haim' neighborhood, later Minyanim occur at the central synagogue. Generally, local synagogues offer prayers at classical times, nothing later. Good information to have.

3. End of the Road - with Forethought. The Old City alleys can be intricate. Remember your precise route from the lodging to the synagogue. Don’t bet on shortcuts; you could end up at a dead end. A while back, I guided a wandering religious MK through these streets on Shabbat Kodesh morning. Uncertain about your path? Ask locals for directions. Safed isn’t Bnei Brak.

4. Safed: Historical and Present. Tourist Safed is more than just its Old City. There are many Torah centers, showing that it’s not just a place of storied spiritual history but a thriving current spiritual hub. Move past the perception of Safed as merely stone paths and eccentrics; it's vibrant with Torah life, yeshiva students, and kids shuttling home in the early afternoon. Discover it yourself.

5. Beware of Snakes. Visiting the city of Kabbalah, you’ll probably tour the ancient cemetery and pray at the graves of revered sages like the Ari and the Beit Yosef. Yet, heed the signs that direct you to stay on marked paths to avoid snake encounters. Many snake holes lie hidden among the wild shrubs. Ignoring them might land you in Ziv Hospital due to snakebites, more common in Galilee. "And take good care of yourselves," the scripture says.

6. Balancing the Sacred and the Mundane. Arriving in Safed during Shabbat, you'll see how the whole city embraces the spirit of Shabbat, reflecting its holy light. Some might suggest beautiful public prayer sessions. Always be sure the place fits an observant person: an alternative is at the 'Berdichev' synagogue at the foot of Ari Street. There, find a uniquely angelic aura, with Shabbat candles and heartfelt singing ala 'Yehuda Green.' Vigilance and modesty are key, even in Safed.

Email of Avraham Yisrael Friedman: abyisrael@gmail.com

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