From Kerala to Israel: The Journey of Cochin's Jewish Community

We are familiar with many communities that have gathered and come to Israel. Who hasn't encountered a Chassidic synagogue, yeshiva students, Yemenite, Breslov, or Moroccan? There's another type of synagogue, not well-known to residents of big cities: the Cochin Jewish synagogue. While cities like Bnei Brak lack an official Cochin community, places such as Rekhasim, Nevatim, Mesilat Zion, Ta'oz, Aviezer, and others have maintained such communities for over seventy years since the community first immigrated to Israel. Over time, Cochin synagogues also opened in Rishon LeZion, Ashdod, and beyond.

The story of Cochin Jews is as long as it is intriguing. Like many Jewish communities, the origins of Jewish settlement in this region aren't precisely documented, but there are local traditions and fascinating testimonies.

Kerala is a state in the southwest of the Indian subcontinent. "Kerala" means coconut in the local language, and the state is rich in coconut trees that have provided food and livelihood for locals for countless years. Situated along the ocean, it's within a section known as the "Arabian Sea." It marks the first stop in India when coming from the Persian Gulf, Gulf of Aden, Red Sea, or even Africa. The city of Cochin in Kerala was a spice trade hub as far back as the days of Abraham. Arab caravans crossing the Middle East with perfumes and spices were the last leg of a journey that began on the western shores of South India.

According to Cochin Jewish tradition, the first Jews to arrive in the city were emissaries of King Solomon, during his journey to the land of Ophir to procure monkeys, peacocks, and treasures. A unique book called "Chronicles of Gad the Seer" is held by Cochin Jews, attributed to Gad, the prophet of King David. According to researcher Meir Bar-Ilan, the book is indeed authentic from King David's time. The second part of the book describes the history of Indian Jews, mentioning Jews arriving in India with the exile of Shalmaneser.

The earliest documentation of Jews in Cochin is of a Jewish merchant named Abin, who in 55 CE (before the destruction of the Second Temple!) arrived at the shores of Shinglee, near Cochin, where he was greeted by a Jewish girl playing the flute. Jews had a keen commercial intuition, and once exiled, they followed trade routes. Initially, Jews resided in Shinglee, but in 1341, a massive flood struck Shinglee, clogging and destroying the port, while creating a natural port in Cochin. Jews migrated there.

In the Cochin synagogue, visitors can still see copper plates from the legendary emperor of Kerala, detailing the rights of an early leader, Joseph Rabban. Among the rights listed: "We grant from our royal palace in Morayakot in the thirty-sixth year of our life and the second year of our reign, and for hundreds of years after, we grant this notable one named Joseph Rabban, and give as a gift the land of Anjuvanam (Cranganore), and the rights to shoot from the great cannon and to sound the trumpets and shofars, the right to spread white garments underfoot, and to bear torches in daylight, to carry the round sunshade and beat the elephant drum, to use flower garlands before the bride and groom—and the right to carry a leaf through the streets in procession.”

Co% Palm oo was the site of development for nine Jewish communities, for the original Cochin Jews, present since ancient times, had customs differing from those who arrived later. Thus, with each distinct period, a new synagogue was built. One of these enduring and active institutions is the Paradesi Synagogue. This local term referred to Sephardic people, and it was erected by Sephardic Jews who immigrated to India.

The Paradesi Synagogue has a particularly interesting structure. Built on land gifted by the Cochin Raja, Rama Varma, it stands at the heart of the Jewish Quarter, now known as "Jew Town." The synagogue shares a wall with the "Mattancherry Palace Temple," hence, the Cochin children probably try not to bang too loudly during the reading of "Haman," to keep from disturbing the neighbors...

Upon entering the synagogue, everyone removes their shoes, akin to entering the Temple, walking barefoot, and sitting on carpets. A special carpet embellishes the synagogue, a gift from Ethiopian Emperor Haile Selassie. The synagogue features a clock tower, and on the outer wall, the words "I have built for You a majestic house, an abode for Your eternal dwelling," words of King Solomon at the Temple's dedication, are inscribed.

Upon the establishment of the State of Israel, the Jewish Agency invited Cochin Jews to return to Israel, and they gladly accepted. Over several years, aliyah operations were organized to bring the community members together, and they were settled in various locations throughout the country, from north to south. They preserve their beautiful customs, unique prayer melodies, and traditional colorful clothes adapted for each holiday. Their Indian wedding customs were grand and exceptional, though not all are accepted today. Weddings lasted 15 days, and during wedding preparations, the bride would enter the synagogue and kiss the Torah. As she exited, everyone would throw coins at her. During these days, many animals were slaughtered. The cost was extremely high, fitting rural areas rather than the modern, demanding environment. During Chanukah, Cochin Jews commemorate Rabbi Nehemiah ben Abraham, head rabbi of the Cochin community, by holding feasts and speaking words of Torah in his memory, across Cochin communities throughout the country.