Uncovering the Western Wall: History You Didn't Know

The Western Wall stands as one of the remnants of the wall King Herod built around the Temple Mount to expand it. The space created between the new walls and the original mountain was filled with vaulted structures to enlarge the top plaza of the Temple Mount and to allow the construction of an impressive structure. For instance, the area known as "Solomon's Stables" on the Temple Mount is actually the space between the vaults in one of the sections.

The Western Wall Plaza Used to Be Tiny

The Western Wall is 488 meters long. Until the Six-Day War, the prayer plaza—known in Arabic as Al-Buraq Alley and in Hebrew as Kotel Alley—was 28 meters long and 3.6 meters wide. These dimensions changed after the area was captured in the Six-Day War, when the Mughrabi neighborhood—blocking access to the Wall—was demolished during a nighttime operation, as its residents often harassed worshippers. This destruction created the large prayer plaza we see today, which is 57 meters long. Over the years, the plaza underwent construction and renovations to accommodate worshippers.

The Western Wall currently stands 40 meters tall, with 15 meters visible above the plaza, and the rest below. Researchers believe that during the time of the Second Temple, the Wall's height reached approximately 60 meters.

Moses Montefiore Didn't Add to the Wall

When observing the Western Wall, one can notice that the stones are not all original, based on their size and shape. The seven lower courses, consisting of gigantic stones that remain a mystery as to how they were transported, are original, while the others were added later. The original stones are identifiable by the frame-like carving around them, known to researchers as Herodian carving.

Above the Herodian stones, one can see several more rows of large, smooth-faced stones added during the Muslim period about 1,300 years ago. The smaller stones above those were added during the Ottoman period.

The last recorded elevation of the Western Wall likely took place about a hundred years ago by the Muslims. During the 1929 Palestine riots, Jews were accused of stirring tensions by building a partition wall. However, Rabbi Kook, in his testimony before the commission investigating the riots, stated that it was the Muslims who created the tension by adding the upper course to the Wall.

Contrary to popular belief, the Jewish philanthropist Moses Montefiore had no involvement in constructing the upper course—this was conclusively proven when the bonding materials between the upper stones were examined and found to be from a time long after Montefiore's death.

Facing the Wall plaza, on the left side, is a kind of cave that also serves as a prayer area. The arch above this cave is known as Wilson's Arch, named after the English officer who discovered it. Researchers believe this arch was part of a bridge connecting the Temple Mount to the residential area in Jerusalem.

The Wall Wasn't Always a Place for Prayer

Even after the Second Temple's destruction, Jews were allowed, for some time, to walk among its ruins. The Talmud in Tractate Makkot (24b) recounts the visit of Rabbi Akiva and his colleagues: "Once, they were ascending to Jerusalem. When they reached Mount Scopus, they tore their clothes. As they approached the Temple Mount, they saw a fox emerging from the Holy of Holies, and they began to cry while Rabbi Akiva laughed. They asked him why he was laughing, and he asked them why they were crying. They replied, 'A place of which it is written (Numbers 1:51), "And the outsider who approaches shall be put to death," has become a fox's den, should we not cry?' He said, 'That's why I'm laughing. For it is written (Isaiah 8:2), "I will summon trustworthy witnesses for Me—Uriah the priest and Zechariah son of Jeberechiah." What connection does Uriah have with Zechariah, "Uriah" being from the First Temple and "Zechariah" from the Second Temple? The verse connects Zechariah's prophecy with Uriah's prophecy, "Uriah" said (Micah 3:12), "Because of you, Zion will be plowed like a field," and "Zechariah" said (Zechariah 8:4), "Old men and old women will again sit in the streets of Jerusalem." Until Uriah's prophecy was fulfilled, I feared Zechariah's prophecy would not come to pass. Now that Uriah's has been fulfilled, it is evident that Zechariah's will be fulfilled.' In this manner, they said to him: 'Akiva, you have comforted us.'"

After the Bar Kochba revolt, roughly 60 years after the Temple's destruction, Jews were completely barred from Jerusalem. Only on Tisha B'Av, the day commemorating the destruction, were they permitted to pray in front of the ruins.

Travelers from various periods documented prayers at the Western Wall, dating back about 600 years. Recent research suggests that the narrow alley once alongside the Wall was widened following the removal of rubble from adjacent houses after an earthquake in Jerusalem about 550 years ago.

There's also a legend from about 500 years ago about Sultan Suleiman, who, upon conquering Jerusalem, searched for the Temple ruins he'd heard about, and when he noticed people dumping trash in a specific spot, he realized the Wall was there, having been told it was a mitzvah. He spread a rumor that gold coins were found there, prompting people to clear the trash, revealing the Temple remains. During the Ottoman period, prayers at the site depended on the goodwill of rulers, who sometimes charged for the privilege. Under British rule, there were clear regulations concerning prayer at the Wall.

There Was Once a Traffic Exchange Here

As you approach the Kotel from the Dung Gate, several intriguing features come into view. Descending the steps marked "Ezrat Yisrael," you can see an outcropping resembling the start of an arch. This is Robinson's Arch, named after the archaeologist who discovered it about 140 years ago. It's a remnant of a bridge used by worshippers to ascend the Temple Mount from street level adjacent to the wall.

About 50 years ago, excavations uncovered an inscription under the arch with the verse "And you will see, and your heart will rejoice" [Isaiah 66]. It is clear the inscription was made when the stones were at human height. Thus, researchers believe the inscription dates to the Byzantine period, during which one of the emperors wanted to allow Jews to rebuild the Temple, and the inscription aimed to encourage them to do so.

Underneath the arch, there are two holes in the Wall's corner—one in the western face and one in the southern. According to a new Muslim tradition, Muhammad tethered his horse, Al-Buraq, to one of these holes.

Was This the First Shabbat Horn?

Near this corner, researchers found a stone engraved with the words "To the house of trumpeting." It is believed this stone fell from the Wall when Roman legions dismantled the Temple, and this might be the location where trumpets sounded before the start of Shabbat, as described in Tractate Shabbat (35b): "In the School of Rabbi Yishmael, they taught that six blasts were sounded on Shabbat eve..." The stone is currently in a museum, with a replica in its place.

Next to the Wall was a street leading people to the Temple Mount entrances. The other side of the street had numerous shops, their entrances unearthed in archaeological excavations by the southern Kotel. Many mikvaot (ritual baths) were also found, used by pilgrims and visitors who needed to purify themselves before entering the sacred area.

May we soon witness the rebuilding of the Third Temple in our days.

Oshir Nadivi is a certified tour guide. For questions/comments/feedback: editor.nelech@gmail.com