Exploring the Underground Wonders of Beit Guvrin

When the temperature rises, there are two ways to explore without overheating: one is above ground, mixing water and shade, and the other, our choice today, takes us beneath the surface at Beit Guvrin National Park. This area has been home to settlements for many years, with the national park covering the ancient sites of Maresha and Beit Guvrin.

A Peek into the Past

The first mention of a settlement named Maresha appears in the Book of Joshua (Chapter 15) as part of the territory allotted to the Tribe of Judah: "and Keilah, and Achzib, and Mareshah...". In Chronicles 1 (Chapter 2), the city is noted as Caleb's home: "and the sons of Caleb the brother of Jerahmeel Mareshah, who is the father of Hebron".

The prophet Micah, living towards the end of the First Temple period, resided in this area and prophesied about Maresha [Chapter 1]: "For this will I lament and howl, I will go barefoot and naked: I will make a wailing like the jackals, and mourning like the ostriches... Therefore shalt thou give presents to Moresheth-gath: the houses of Achzib shall be a deceitful thing unto the kings of Israel."

In the Jerusalem Talmud [Sotah, Chapter 7, Halacha 5], Rabbi Yochanan of Bet Guvrin is mentioned. He was a third-generation Amora who commented on world languages: "There are four languages worthy for the world to use, and they are: Greek for song, Latin for warfare, Syriac for lamentation, and Hebrew for speech. Some say Assyrian for writing." This suggests that Rabbi Yochanan lived in a city where many languages were spoken, and he recognized their unique qualities.

Most of the remaining structures date back to the Hellenistic period, when Greek culture dominated after the First Temple's destruction, and the Roman period, post Second Temple destruction, when former Roman soldiers settled here. They rebuilt Beit Guvrin from Maresha's ruins, which is why few above-ground remnants exist. During the Byzantine era, churches and monasteries were established, and the area held significant Crusader-era settlements as well.

A Brief Overview

Beit Guvrin's geology consists of two layers—an upper hard layer called nari, and a softer chalk layer beneath. Most underground structures were made by carving a narrow hole in the rock, continuing to dig downwards. After passing the nari, they widened the opening, creating the subterranean city beneath Maresha. A cave with a bell-shaped hollow carved this way is called a Bell Cave, due to its shape.

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The Polish Cave – A Bell Cave used by Polish soldiers of Anders' army during World War II, while transitioning from the Eastern Front to Europe. Among these soldiers was Menachem Begin. They inscribed "POLONIA" and left a carved eagle in the cave.

The Olive Press Cave – Houses a reconstructed olive press with all its components. This cave was likely part of the ancient Maresha industrial area.

The Columbarium Cave – A massive cave with two intersecting corridors featuring thousands of niches in the rock, believed to have housed pigeons (columba in Latin means pigeon; columbarium means a pigeon house). Researchers suggest pigeons were raised for food, religious rituals, or their droppings used to fertilize fields. Besides the large Columbarium Cave, there are other Bell-type caves with triangular or square niches.

The Sidonian Cave – A vast complex of burial caves with stunning wall art and entrances. These are recreations of the original murals that have faded over time. The artwork includes animals, tools, battle scenes, and mythological creatures. At the entrance furthest from the cave's mouth, there’s an inscription referencing Apollophanes son of Sesmaios, head of the Sidonian community in Maresha, lending the cave its name.

The Bath Cave – Known for its bathing stalls, complete with baths and dividing walls for bather privacy.

Beyond these, Maresha has more cave complexes, including burial caves, columbaria, and oil presses.

 

Free Men in a Freeman Complex?

The above-ground remains in Beit Guvrin National Park are from the "Freeman Complex," named for the Roman ex-soldiers who lived there. Among the ruins is a complete amphitheater, including the corridors behind the arena, where gladiator battles and wild animal fights took place.

Nearby, the Freeman Complex also contains remains of Byzantine-era churches.

 

Pro Tips

If you visit Beit Guvrin in chilly weather, start at the Freeman Complex—it's not as pleasant when hot. Be aware that entry to Beit Guvrin National Park requires a fee. You can spend a leisurely full day in the park's different areas. Planning on a longer stay? Don't forget to pack some food.

Osher Ndivi is a certified tour guide. For feedback/questions/comments: editor.nelech@gmail.com