In Baghdad's Shadows: Unearthing Jewish Traces

Muhammad, our man in Baghdad, continues to operate and surprise.
As Chanukah approaches, the time when we celebrate the Maccabees' victory over those who wished to erase the teachings of the Torah, Muhammad presses on through Baghdad's alleys, documenting the remaining Jewish traces, all while risking his own life. Muhammad is challenging the widespread belief that the Jewish sites in Iraq have been utterly and intentionally destroyed. It turns out that Baghdad still has a street known as Torah Street, a rarity not found in Bnei Brak, Kiryat Sefer, or anywhere else in Israel.

This time, the mission: to locate 'Shaara al-Torah', or Torah Street. Within this typical Baghdadi alleyway once stood the 'mother of all yeshivas' in Baghdad - 'Midrash Beit Zilkha' led by Rabbi Abdallah Somekh of blessed memory, renowned for his work 'Zivchei Tzedek'.

'Dar al-Yahud' is one of the most densely populated neighborhoods north of the Tigris River, cutting through Iraq's capital. The area comprises old, decrepit houses, abandoned shops, and a maze of narrow alleys. Jews lived here until the establishment of the state of Israel. Many synagogues once flourished here, with the highlight being, as mentioned, the Beit Zilkha Yeshiva, which enlightened the East. From here emerged Torah instructions not only for Baghdad and Iraq but for the entire East. From here arose the greats of recent Babylon: the Ben Ish Chai, Rabbi Yehuda Fattaya, Rabbi Yitzchak Kaduri, Rabbi Salman Mutzafi, and many others of blessed memory.

"This mission is tough," Muhammad tried to deflect...
"It's very important," I replied.
"Everyone needs to know that you Baghdad Arabs have not erased Jewish remnants. Look," I told him, "see how the Emiratis in the Gulf have benefited..." Muhammad was persuaded and said, "One day, Inshallah, maybe we'll be like Dubai, and all the Jews will come to visit Baghdad.."

The photos Muhammad took were astonishing. I couldn't believe my eyes. The legendary Beit Zilkha building still stands. The carved, decorative gate with iron knockers and tiger motifs remains intact, as if recently closed, waiting for the sun to rise and open the gate.

At the beginning of the street, beneath the yeshiva structure, a sign in bold letters reads: "Torah Street". No one has touched it or the yeshiva.

Thank you, Muhammad. A. For risking yourself, B. For uncovering and documenting. Thank you.

Yitzhak Carmeli